I experienced some inclined stops and hold-down stops but these accessories didn't make my happy. I whished a fixture that would clamp from each end grain side and firmly keep the stock. It should be set and removed without tool.

I cut out two shapes from a mahogany scrap. A clamp lever would lock the stop block at the end of the carriage and two mahogany strip guides would help a smooth setting. A plastic handle screwed onto the second one would secure the work piece. The mahogany spacer stuck underneath would allow the right side of the block always the same distance from the saw blade. I machined a V-glue joint under the stop block and the slider.

Securing system to hold le work piece was the tricky part. Sometimes it had to be soft and must firmly grip another one. I used two plywood strips. The first one would hold nails whereas a sanding strip would be stuck on the second one. This last also had to safely cover the tips and the nails would be embedded into without another lock system.

I use this handy device more than I thought and you may read about tapering with the edging fixture in that document. Albeit it could have been built without nail grip. In fact I have hardly never removed the cover. Perhaps in the future... Who knows. One more time the rip fence enables safe work when the over blade guard get in the way.

Here are two other usages purposing to parallel with the sliding table and the only back stop or pinching the workpiece when thickness-sanding.