I sometimes use this workaround to cleanly cut melamine or veneered workpieces, mostly with large panels that cannot be easily handled on the combination machine. That method demands careful adjustments and few skill but provides satisfying outcomes with a very sharp saw blade.

Minimizing tearout requires two passes to rip the board. First, the plunge mechanism is adjusted so that teeth protrude about two millimetres which means the riving knife doesn't need removal then the power saw is slowly pulled along the clamped straight edge. Here climb cutting doesn't raise safety concern because the force can't throw a heavy saw out of control and the operator's main issue is to carefully follow the edge of the rule.
The circular saw depth is now adjusted some millimetres more than the board thickness and the second cut is performed as usually which means thoroughly pushing the power tool along the straight edge.

As regard cross cuts, tape may be stuck along the cut line that makes more consistent work or at least keeps chips from going away. Another way of reducing chipping could be sticking a zero clearance wooden plate under the saw base but that accessory disable the blade guard and may get in the way for further needs.